Here you will find the latest information on travel in Europe, as well as lots of other great stuff like recipes for some of my favorite European foods, schedules of upcoming travel seminars, tips and tricks on traveling in Europe, and answers to reader questions about European travel.

For more information about hotels and restaurants like those featured in our blog, or for help in planning your own independent trip to Europe, please contact us about our Self-Guided Trips or Custom Itinerary Planning services.

Venice gets its first female gondolier

For most of its history, the job of being a gondolier in Venice has been passed down from father to son. But recently a woman passed the very difficult written and practical tests to become Venice's first female gondolier.

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Hotel Report Card: Venice, Italy

I'm starting to put my destination guides on-line, including a selection of my recommended hotels and restaurants. The first of these covers Venice.

Let me know what you would like to see next.



Hotel da Bruno, Venice
ALBERGO DA BRUNO
Salizzada San Lio 5726, 30122 Venezia
tel. 041-523-0452 fax: 041-522-1157
e-mail: info@hoteldabruno.com
32 rooms. Singles: €135 Doubles: €180 Visa/MC accepted.

Overall: C
Location: C
Ambiance: B
Cleanliness: B
Maintenance: D
Staff: C

A nice mid-range hotel, clean and modern rooms that were upgraded recently. The renovation has added greatly to the charm of the rooms, which were rather plain and sterile but now have attractive colors and furnishings. Ideal location midway between Rialto and St. Marks.

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What to Read, What to Watch: Venice

Venice has provided the setting for countless novels and films, but there are also a good number of non-fiction books that are worth digging in to.

Books


Commissario Guido Brunetti series, by Donna Leon
One of my all-time favorites, this series of murder mysteries is set in modern Venice, with the middle-aged Guido Brunetti as the central character. Beautifully evocative of the spirit and feel of Venice, the subtle differences between Venetians and Italians, and the love/hate relationship many have for their city.




A History of Venice, by John Julius Norwich
A massive tome that is probably the best history of medieval Venice ever written. Makes clear just how unrivaled this city of art and culture was, at a time when most of Europe was still groveling around in mud huts.

The City of Falling Angels, by John Berendt
An intimate and intriguing look at the exasperating character of Venice and Venetians. With his first book, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, on the New York Times Bestseller list Berendt moved to Venice and spent the next ten years finding quirky characters and charming citizen who inhabit the world’s strangest city.

The Venetian Empire, by Jan Morris
With typical wry wit and sparkling prose, Morris mixes the history of the great Venetian trading Empire with descriptions of places in the present day city. One of the best introductions to the city.




The World of Venice, by Jan Morris
An early work by Morris that doesn’t exhibit her usual panache and clear-headed style. While it’s a decent read, and a good comparison to her later works, which are the among the best travel writing in the world, other books do a better job of bringing Venice’s history to life.

Venice Against the Sea, by John Keahey
A modern, concise and well researched look into the many reasons that Venice is sinking, and what attempts are being made to save the city.

Venice Observed, by Mary McCarthy
Years after she spent time wandering through Venice, exploring the art and architecture of the floating city, McCarthy looks back fondly on her time there.


Films

Italian for Beginners
Comic romance is multi-lingual in this Danish film about people learning Italian for just about every reason except wanting to speak Italian. While most of it takes place in a village near Copenhagen, the class trip to Venice is a great finish.

Bread & Tulips
Heading down the freeway towards another humdrum family vacation, middle-aged and unappreciated mom Rosalba is left behind at a rest stop. How long before her family realizes she’s gone? Rosalba is not waiting around to find out and heads off on a little vacation of her own. She hitch hikes to Venice, has a fling, gets a job in flower store, and rediscovers her own sense of joy and purpose in life.

Dangerous Beauty
In the 16th-century, Venice was home to as many as 10,000 courtesans (read: high class prostitutes), who used their powers to gain considerable wealth and status while influencing society and politics. Based on a true story, this visually sumptuous film teeters on the edge of respectability with enough flesh and sex to keep any teenager happy, while delivering an insightful look into 16th century politics and church repression in the age of the Inquisition.




Death in Venice
Based on the Thomas Mann novel and set in Venice at the beginning of the 20th century, an aging composer facing a mental block finds renewal in an image of perfect youth. A tragic and disturbing film.

Summertime
At her arrival in Venice, Hepburn is an emotionally uptight, single American woman. Soon the music, food, art, and architecture of Venice (all beautifully filmed on location) will work their magic, and she’ll be tossing caution and morals to the wind.

The Wings of a Dove
In a plot twisty enough for Hitchcock, Bonham Carter plays a young woman in love with a guy she can’t marry because he’s poor and below her station. She suggests he marry a dying friend of hers, who just happens to be a rich heiress, so he can get her money, but then has second thoughts after it’s too late. Set mostly in Venice, with a few London scenes.

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Restaurant Review: Venice, Italy

Osteria Oliva Nera, Venice Italy
Osteria Oliva Nera
Castello 3417
Venezia
tel. 041-522-2170
Hours: 12:00 to 15:00 & 19:00 to 22:00
Average Price: €70 per person. All major credit cards accepted.
Finding it: Located in a residential area, midway between the Bridge of Sighs and the Arsenal. Head down the waterfront, then turn left at Calle dei Pieta, just before the Metropol Hotel. Go straight for about four blocks, and the restaurant will be on a corner to your right.

Firmly focused on quality over quantity, Oliva Nera is a gourmet delight in what is otherwise a pretty bleak restaurant landscape. They are especially known for their zucchini flowers, stuffed with cheese and fried, the best I’ve ever had. The rest of the menu changes throughout the year. I’ve enjoyed the breaded shrimp with cold cauliflower cream sauce, and the ricotta and orange ravioli with tomato.

Portions are small, with a subtle blending of flavors not often found in the tourist mills so common in Venice. Each person should expect to eat two or three courses, at €15 to €20 per course. Service is warm, yet prompt and professional.

Reservations recommended.


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Hotel Report Card: Venice, Italy

Hotel American, Venice
Hotel American Dinesen A+
Rio San Vio 628, Dorsoduro
30123 Venezia
tel: 041-520-4733 fax: 041-520-4048
Web
30 rooms.
Singles: €190 Doubles: €260 to €310 All major credit cards accepted.
Location: B Ambiance: A Clean: A+ Maintenance: A Staff: A+

Hotel American, Venice
Excellent location and atmosphere, the American is a hotel with strong attention to detail and friendly service. Some rooms have terraces overlooking the canal.








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Venice struggles with high water

In a city where it's not unusual for locals to don hip waders before heading out for a walk, recent rains have raised water levels above what even they are used to. Recent rains and higher than normal winds have combined to submerge over half the city. Flood levels reached more than 4.5 feet above normal. Officials fear that in January, when tides are expected to be higher already, the city may see water levels reach 5 feet. View photos of the floods.
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Roman Venice discovered

A team of researchers from the University of Padua in Italy have used near-infrared imaging to reveal the outlines of the Roman city of Altinum. The forerunner of Venice, Altinum was abandoned 1500 years ago during successive waves of barbarian invasions.

See the images and read the story.

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News Updates: Venice

Tourists now out number locals almost 3 to 1, as Venice prepares for its own funeral. http://bit.ly/SfXUX
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For more information about hotels and restaurants like those featured in our blog, or for help in planning your own independent trip to Europe, please contact us about our Self-Guided Trips or Custom Itinerary Planning services.